A Complete Guide on Pearls: Colors, Qualities, & Care Guide

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Pearls are one of the few gemstones that originate in living creatures, such as oysters and mussels. What distinguishes pearls is their natural luster, that soft, glowing shine that appears to emanate from within the pearl itself.

This quality has made them a symbol of timeless elegance across cultures for nearly 8,000 years. Pearls are versatile enough to be worn as a classic strand necklace, a pair of earrings, or a modern statement piece that few gemstones can match.

What Are Pearls Made Of & How Are Pearls Formed

Pearls are primarily composed of calcium carbonate (in the form of aragonite crystals), an organic protein known as conchiolin, and water, the same materials that mollusks use to construct their shells. 

When a foreign particle enters a mollusk, it responds by coating it with thin layers of nacre (pronounced nay-ker), which eventually form a pearl. The thickness and quality of that nacre are more important than most people realize. Thicker nacre produces a richer, deeper luster and a more durable pearl, whereas thin nacre appears dull and is more susceptible to damage over time. 

The process can take from a few months to several years. In nature, this occurs entirely by chance, resulting in what we call "natural pearls," which are rare, beautiful, and often extremely expensive. 

Most pearls today are cultured, which means that a farmer carefully inserts a small nucleus into the mollusk to initiate the nacre-coating process. The mollusk still performs all biological functions, but the result is a genuine pearl that is much more accessible.

The environment in which a pearl grows affects its character. Freshwater pearls, grown in rivers and lakes, have a softer luster and a wider range of shapes, making them a less expensive option. Saltwater pearls grow in ocean oysters and are distinguished by their sharper, mirror-like shine and rounder shape, which is why they are frequently used in high-end jewelry.

Types of Pearls Based on Formation

Saltwater Pearls

Saltwater pearls are grown inside oysters in ocean environments, where the salt-rich water and natural conditions produce some of the most prized pearls in the world. 

They tend to have a sharp, mirror-like luster and a naturally round shape, often appearing in white, cream, and exotic, darker hues depending on the variety. 

Because ocean farming is complex and yields are low, saltwater pearls are rarer and sit at a higher price point, typically ranging from a few hundred to tens of thousands of dollars. The most well-known varieties are Akoya, Tahitian, and South Sea pearls.


Freshwater Pearls

Freshwater pearls are grown in mussels living in rivers, lakes, and ponds, primarily in China. 

Unlike saltwater pearls, they're made up almost entirely of nacre, which actually makes them quite durable. They come in a wide range of shapes, sizes, and natural colors, from white and pink to lavender. 

Freshwater pearls are the most accessible type on the market, making them a popular choice for everyday jewelry. Prices typically start low and can reach into the hundreds for higher-quality pieces.


Natural Pearls

Natural pearls form entirely without human intervention, where a wild mollusk encounters a foreign particle by chance and slowly coats it in nacre over many years. They're extremely rare, which makes them highly collectible and valuable. 

In appearance, they're often smaller and less perfectly round than cultured pearls, with a deep, rich luster built up over a long period. 

Because truly natural pearls are so scarce today, they're mostly found at auctions or in antique jewelry, with prices easily reaching thousands to millions of dollars. 


Cultured Pearls

Cultured pearls are pearls for which a farmer kickstarts the process by inserting a small nucleus into the mollusk. The mollusk then coats it in nacre naturally, just as it would in the wild. They look identical to natural pearls and come in a wide range of sizes, shapes, and colors. 

These pearls make up the vast majority of pearls sold today, offering great quality at a much more accessible price range, from affordable freshwater strands to luxury South Sea pieces.


Pearls Nacre

Nacre isn't a type of pearl itself, but it's the substance that makes a pearl what it is. It's the thin, crystalline layers of calcium carbonate and conchiolin that the mollusk deposits around the irritant over time. 

The thicker and more even the nacre, the better the pearl's luster, durability, and overall quality. When shopping for pearls, nacre thickness is one of the most important qualities to consider. A pearl with deep, high-quality nacre will have that signature glow that cheap imitations simply can't replicate.

Pearl Colors & Their Meanings

Pearls come in a variety of colors. This diversity is shaped by a combination of factors, including the mollusk species, water conditions, nacre thickness, and natural overtones. Each color, in turn, carries its own unique meaning.

  • White: White pearls are the most widely recognized. They are associated with purity, innocence, and new beginnings, making them the top choice for weddings and other celebratory occasions.
  • Pink: Pink and peach pearls have a warm, romantic tone that makes them ideal for gifts, representing love, compassion, and femininity.
  • Gold: Golden South Sea pearls are among the rarest in the world. Their luxurious golden hue is naturally produced by the gold-lipped oyster, making them a symbol of wealth, prosperity, and confidence.
  • Black (Tahitian): Black pearls, especially those from Tahiti, are known for their exotic and deep hues. These pearls symbolize strength, mystery, and individuality.
  • Blue: Blue pearls are rare but highly sought after for their ocean-inspired hues. They symbolize inner peace, clarity, and balance, making them perfect for those who seek a sense of calm or spiritual growth.

Is Mother of Pearl a Pearl?

Many people think that pearl and mother-of-pearl are the same. In fact, they are different. Mother of pearl (MOP) is the iridescent inner lining of a mollusk shell composed of the same material as pearls, nacre. But, as you'll see, that's where the similarities end. 

Mother of pearl is a flat surface cut directly from the shell, whereas pearls form spherically within the mollusk's soft tissue.

Because mother of pearl comes in flat sheets, it can be carved into a variety of shapes and designs, making it much more versatile. It is also less expensive than natural pearls, which are much rarer and priced as well  

Want to learn more? Check out our complete guide to mother of pearl.

How to Tell the Quality of a Pearl (GIA’s 7 Value Factors)

To know the quality of a pearl, we can refer to seven key factors defined by the GIA (Gemological Institute of America):

  • Luster — The most important factor of all. High-quality pearls have intense, sharp reflections that are almost mirror-like, while lower-quality ones appear dull or milky.
  • Surface — Refers to blemishes like spots or wrinkles on the surface. The fewer and smaller the imperfections, the higher the value.
  • Shape — Round pearls are the most valuable, though symmetrical drops and oval shapes are also highly sought after.
  • Color — Covers three elements: body color (the base hue), overtone (a subtle secondary color on the surface), and orient (a rare rainbow-like shimmer).
  • Size — Measured in millimeters, typically ranging from 2 mm to 16 mm or more. Larger pearls are generally rarer and command a higher price.
  • Nacre Quality — Thicker, well-formed nacre means better luster, durability, and longevity. It's what separates a pearl that ages beautifully from one that doesn't.
  • Matching — For strands, earrings, or sets, pearls should be consistent across all quality factors. That said, some designers intentionally mix colors and shapes for a more eclectic, modern look.

Most Popular Pearls Used in Jewelry & How to Distinguish Them

Akoya Pearl

Akoya pearls are the classic pearls that most people envision when they think of a pearl necklace. Grown in Akoya oysters, primarily in Japan and China, they are known for producing some of the most perfectly round pearls with an exceptionally sharp, mirror-like luster. 

They typically range in size from 6 to 8mm and come in white and cream tones, with soft rose or silver overtones.

These pearls are generally priced in the mid-to-high range. However, at Mondays Made, we have a selection of Akoya pearl jewelry with an accessible price range, such as a classic-looking Akoya pearl ring and Akoya pearl stud earrings in petite, classic, and large sizes.


Baroque Pearl

Unlike round pearls, baroque pearls have irregular, non-spherical shapes, like elongated, lumpy, or free-form, giving each piece a unique personality. 

Their luster can be as stunning as round pearls, and their natural, one-of-a-kind form is precisely what makes them so appealing in modern jewelry design. Because of their shape, they are generally less expensive.

Mondays Made's True As You Are collection celebrates this natural form, with the Baroque Pearl Drop Necklace, Baroque Pearl Two-Way Drop Earrings, and the best-selling Baroque Pearl Drop Charm, all handcrafted in 18k gold, rose gold, and silver vermeil.


Pearls Nacre/Mother of Pearl

Mother-of-pearl is the iridescent nacre lining found on the inner surface of a mollusk shell. It is prized in jewelry for its versatility, as it comes in flat sheets that can be cut and carved into a wide range of shapes, from florals to geometric forms, making it one of the most widely available pearl-derived materials. 

Mondays Made's Mother of Pearl collection includes the most beloved pieces, including standouts such as the Carved Sunflower Necklace, the Mother of Pearl Sakura Reversible Bracelet, and the Mother of Pearl Clover Necklace.

How To Care for Pearl Jewelry

Pearls are naturally delicate, so a little extra care can keep them looking beautiful for years to come.

  • Put pearls on last. Always wear pearls after applying perfume, hairspray, or makeup. Chemicals in these products can dull the nacre with time.
  • Wipe them down after wearing them. After each wear, gently wipe down your pearls with a soft, damp cloth. This removes body oils and sweat, which can gradually erode the surface.
  • Keep them away from the water. Avoid wearing pearl jewelry while swimming, showering, or doing dishes. Prolonged exposure to water can weaken silk thread strands and harm nacre.
  • Clean gently. If your pearls need a deeper clean, you can simply use a soft cloth lightly dampened with clean water, which you can easily do at home. Do not use ultrasonic cleaners, steam cleaners, or abrasive cloths.

What determines the quality and price of a pearl?

The quality and price of a pearl are determined by several factors, including luster, surface quality, shape, size, color, nacre quality, and type of pearl. In general, pearls with a bright, reflective luster, fewer surface blemishes, and desirable shapes tend to be more valuable.

Pearl type and rarity matter too. Natural pearls that form without human intervention are exceptionally rare and can command very high prices, while cultured pearls are intentionally grown on pearl farms and are much more widely available.

At Mondays Made, we select pearls for their natural beauty and character, from luminous Akoya pearls to one-of-a-kind baroque pearls and mother of pearl.

Are cultured pearls real pearls?

Yes, cultured pearls are real pearls. They form inside living oysters or mollusks and are made from nacre, just like natural pearls. The key difference is that pearl farmers initiate the formation process rather than leaving it entirely to chance.

Natural pearls form without human intervention and are extremely rare today. Most genuine pearls used in modern jewelry are cultured, allowing pearls to be produced more consistently without relying on the harvesting of rare wild pearls.

Quality isn't determined simply by whether a pearl is natural or cultured. A high-quality cultured pearl can have exceptional luster, surface quality, color, and nacre.

What is the difference between mother of pearl and pearl?

Pearls and mother of pearl are both made from nacre, but they form in different parts of a mollusk. Mother of pearl is the iridescent nacre lining the inside of certain mollusk shells, while a pearl forms when layers of nacre build up around a nucleus or irritant within the mollusk.

Because mother of pearl can be cut and carved, it offers more flexibility in jewelry design. At Mondays Made, you'll find it shaped into pieces such as our Mother of Pearl Sakura Reversible Bracelet, Carved Sunflower Necklace, and Puffy Heart Reversible Huggie Earrings.

With pearls, we love letting their natural beauty take the lead, from the classic shape and luster of our Akoya Pearl Stud Earrings to the organic silhouette of our Baroque Pearl Drop Necklace.

Browse Pearl Jewelry →

Can you wear pearl jewelry in the shower?

It's best to remove pearl jewelry before showering, swimming, or exercising. Pearls are relatively delicate gemstones, and repeated exposure to water, sweat, perfume, skincare products, chlorine, and other chemicals can gradually affect their surface and luster.

To keep your pearl jewelry looking its best:

  • Put your pearls on last, after perfume, lotion, makeup, and other beauty products have dried.
  • Remove them before showering, swimming, exercising, or sleeping.
  • After wearing, gently wipe your pearls with a soft, clean cloth.
  • Store pearl jewelry separately from harder gemstones and metals to help prevent scratches.

A little extra care goes a long way in preserving their natural glow.

How can you tell if pearls are real or fake?

Real pearls usually have subtle variations in their surface, shape, and luster, while imitation pearls often appear more perfectly uniform. Genuine pearls also tend to have a deeper, more complex glow because light interacts with layers of nacre.

Imitation pearls are commonly made from glass or plastic beads with a pearlescent coating, which can give them a smoother, more uniform appearance.

One commonly used at-home check is the tooth test: when very gently rubbed against the edge of a tooth, a real pearl often feels slightly gritty because of its nacre structure, while many imitation pearls feel smooth. However, this isn't a definitive test and can potentially damage jewelry, so professional assessment is the safest way to confirm whether a pearl is genuine.

At Mondays Made, our pearl jewelry uses genuine pearls and mother of pearl, with the specific material listed on each product page.

Are pearls good for sensitive skin?

Pearls themselves are generally well tolerated, but whether pearl jewelry is suitable for sensitive skin depends largely on the metal it is set in. Nickel and certain other metals used in jewelry are more common causes of contact irritation than the pearl itself.

At Mondays Made, our pearl and mother of pearl pieces are set in nickel-free, hypoallergenic vermeil, with a 18k gold/ 18k rose gold/ rhodium layer - at least five times thicker than standard plated jewelry - over sterling silver. This makes them a considered choice for everyday wear, including for many people with sensitive skin.

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