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Pearls are one of the few gemstones that originate in living creatures, such as oysters and mussels. What distinguishes pearls is their natural luster, that soft, glowing shine that appears to emanate from within the pearl itself.
This quality has made them a symbol of timeless elegance across cultures for nearly 8,000 years. Pearls are versatile enough to be worn as a classic strand necklace, a pair of earrings, or a modern statement piece that few gemstones can match.
Pearls are primarily composed of calcium carbonate (in the form of aragonite crystals), an organic protein known as conchiolin, and water, the same materials that mollusks use to construct their shells.
When a foreign particle enters a mollusk, it responds by coating it with thin layers of nacre (pronounced nay-ker), which eventually form a pearl. The thickness and quality of that nacre are more important than most people realize. Thicker nacre produces a richer, deeper luster and a more durable pearl, whereas thin nacre appears dull and is more susceptible to damage over time.
The process can take from a few months to several years. In nature, this occurs entirely by chance, resulting in what we call "natural pearls," which are rare, beautiful, and often extremely expensive.
Most pearls today are cultured, which means that a farmer carefully inserts a small nucleus into the mollusk to initiate the nacre-coating process. The mollusk still performs all biological functions, but the result is a genuine pearl that is much more accessible.
The environment in which a pearl grows affects its character. Freshwater pearls, grown in rivers and lakes, have a softer luster and a wider range of shapes, making them a less expensive option. Saltwater pearls grow in ocean oysters and are distinguished by their sharper, mirror-like shine and rounder shape, which is why they are frequently used in high-end jewelry.
Saltwater pearls are grown inside oysters in ocean environments, where the salt-rich water and natural conditions produce some of the most prized pearls in the world.
They tend to have a sharp, mirror-like luster and a naturally round shape, often appearing in white, cream, and exotic, darker hues depending on the variety.
Because ocean farming is complex and yields are low, saltwater pearls are rarer and sit at a higher price point, typically ranging from a few hundred to tens of thousands of dollars. The most well-known varieties are Akoya, Tahitian, and South Sea pearls.
Freshwater pearls are grown in mussels living in rivers, lakes, and ponds, primarily in China.
Unlike saltwater pearls, they're made up almost entirely of nacre, which actually makes them quite durable. They come in a wide range of shapes, sizes, and natural colors, from white and pink to lavender.
Freshwater pearls are the most accessible type on the market, making them a popular choice for everyday jewelry. Prices typically start low and can reach into the hundreds for higher-quality pieces.
Natural pearls form entirely without human intervention, where a wild mollusk encounters a foreign particle by chance and slowly coats it in nacre over many years. They're extremely rare, which makes them highly collectible and valuable.
In appearance, they're often smaller and less perfectly round than cultured pearls, with a deep, rich luster built up over a long period.
Because truly natural pearls are so scarce today, they're mostly found at auctions or in antique jewelry, with prices easily reaching thousands to millions of dollars.
Cultured pearls are pearls for which a farmer kickstarts the process by inserting a small nucleus into the mollusk. The mollusk then coats it in nacre naturally, just as it would in the wild. They look identical to natural pearls and come in a wide range of sizes, shapes, and colors.
These pearls make up the vast majority of pearls sold today, offering great quality at a much more accessible price range, from affordable freshwater strands to luxury South Sea pieces.
Nacre isn't a type of pearl itself, but it's the substance that makes a pearl what it is. It's the thin, crystalline layers of calcium carbonate and conchiolin that the mollusk deposits around the irritant over time.
The thicker and more even the nacre, the better the pearl's luster, durability, and overall quality. When shopping for pearls, nacre thickness is one of the most important qualities to consider. A pearl with deep, high-quality nacre will have that signature glow that cheap imitations simply can't replicate.
Many people think that pearl and mother-of-pearl are the same. In fact, they are different. Mother of pearl (MOP) is the iridescent inner lining of a mollusk shell composed of the same material as pearls, nacre. But, as you'll see, that's where the similarities end.
Mother of pearl is a flat surface cut directly from the shell, whereas pearls form spherically within the mollusk's soft tissue.
Because mother of pearl comes in flat sheets, it can be carved into a variety of shapes and designs, making it much more versatile. It is also less expensive than natural pearls, which are much rarer and priced as well
Want to learn more? Check out our complete guide to mother of pearl.
Pearls are naturally delicate, so a little extra care can keep them looking beautiful for years to come.